Thursday, September 8, 2016

Reduced! Now Only $11.5 Million!

We were wandering some back roads around Georgetown as we do and came upon this old rice plantation on the Pee Dee River. Upon looking up information about it, we found out that it is for sale. And even better, the price was reduced from $15 to $11.5 million! (Nothing gauche like a For Sale sign in the yard at those prices!)

Chicora Wood Plantation was first established about 1732 and in 1809 inherited by Robert F.W. Allston.

In 1838 Allston had the original house enlarged and remodeled for his wife Adele and their nine children.

Robert Allston became one of the South Carolina's most successful rice planters with seven rice plantations on the Pee Dee River -- 15,000 producing acres and 630 slaves -- before the Civil War. Allston also became a state senator and representative for 24 years, and South Carolina's 67th governor.

" The manor house and eight existing dependencies were meticulously restored as close to the original as possible based on Allston family records," according to Sotheby's ad for the property.

This photo of the drawing room is from their ad.

Besides 1000 beautiful acres on the river, the property includes: a former school house and caretaker's cottage restored as guest houses overlooking the river, tennis courts, formal garden; the summer kitchen, smokehouse, driver's house, carriage house, rice threshing mill, rice shipping barn and various other barns, and the gatekeepers cabin, all restored to their time period with "the utmost care".

Here is a little more description from the ad:

"Entering the main house the foyer greets you with a grand staircase, a large formal drawing room to the right and an exquisite dining room to the left, each with massive doors, ornate chandeliers and elegant window treatments. The drawing room is a bright and cheerful gathering place with large jib windows that overlook the formal garden and the peaceful Pee Dee. The formal dining room, elegantly embellished, overlooks majestic live oaks adorned with Spanish Moss. The kitchen has a cozy fireplace, abundant cabinet space and opens to a lovely breakfast room. Beneath the house is the “winter” kitchen with original fireplace, mantle, bread oven and root cellar. Through the breezeway is the former servant’s hall, now a large brick-floored bedroom with bath and fireplace. "

Well? Are you getting out your checkbook? Are you ready to move in?

Just a bit more about the Allstons. Too old to fight in the Civil War, Robert Allston continued to produce rice in spite of the fact that the Union blockade of Southern ports made it nearly impossible to get the rice to market. He died in 1864, and when the war ended, the family fled. The property was heavily mortgaged and ransacked and damaged by the freed slaves. However, Adele, his impoverished wife, managed to regain Chicora Wood eventually with the help of one young daughter, Elizabeth.

Interestingly, the daughter returned to the plantation and tried herself to return the family's fields to production of the rice. The fields were overgrown and badly damaged, rice seed, fertilizer, and implements for planting gone, but Elizabeth was determined -- and desperate to keep the land she so loved. A young Southern Belle, she was a woman very much out of her element in farming and running a business, "surviving in a man's works and in a society in upheaval."

In spite of her efforts, for several reasons (a main one being the lack of skilled laborers because freed slaves had no interest in returning to the backbreaking work even for wages) rice was never again a viable crop in South Carolina.

Impoverished and in another effort to save her home, Elizabeth Allston Pringle wrote two books, Chronicles of Chicora Wood about growing up at Chicora and A Woman Rice Planter about her years of trying to bring the rice back into production. I am about half way through the first book and I want it to never end! She is a wonderful writer. Here's a little sample:

"At the end of May my father's entire household migrated to the sea, which was only four miles to the east of Chicora as the crow flies, but was only to be reached by going seven miles in a rowboat and four miles by land. The vehicles, horses, cows, furniture, bedding, trunks, and provisions were all put into great flats, some sixty by twenty feet, others even larger, at first dawn and sent ahead. Then the family got into the row boats and were rowed down the Pee Dee, then through Squirrel Creek, with vines tangled above them, with water lilies and flags and wild roses and scarlet lobelia all along the banks, and every now and then the hands would stop their song a moment and call out, 'Miss, a alligator!'. And there on the reeds and marsh in some sunny cove lay a great alligator basking in the sun, fast asleep. As soon as the sound of the oars reached him, he would plunge into the water, making great waves on which the boat rose and fell in a way suggestive of the ocean itself.

" The way was teeming with life; birds of every hue and note flew from tree to tree on the banks, here and there on top of a cypress, a mother hawk could be seen sitting in her nest looking down with anxious eye, while around, in an ever-narrowing circles flew her fierce mate, with shrill cries, threatening death to the intruder. No one who has not rowed through these creeks in the late spring or early summer can imagine the abundance and variety of life everywhere."

Elizabeth lived on at Chicora Wood until she died in 1921.

 

Sunday, September 4, 2016

My First Hurricane (sort of), Hermine

Thursday night the first hurricane of the season, and my first hurricane ever, was poised to hit Florida from the gulf side of the state and continue across Florida and up the Atlantic coast with Georgetown targeted for the heaviest rainfall.

Thursday night we enjoyed an ice cream cone and free music in the park along with lovely cool breezes from the harbor.

Sandbags were stacked in a trailer, at the ready in case the storm surge threatened to send water over the docks and onto Front Street.

By the time it hit here in the early hours of Friday, Hermine had been downgraded from hurricane to tropical storm.

The downpours of rain continued all day and by noon the wind began to blow. We lost electricity several times during the day.

Sometime in the night Friday the storm swooped on up the coast leaving us with lots of puddles, branches in the yard, one of the neighbor's shutters blown off, and on Saturday the most beautiful day you can imagine. The sun shining, humidity gone, cool breezes blowing ... what a reward for weathering the storm!

We headed for the beach at Pawleys Island early, but we weren't the first ones there. Several people picking up shells, fishermen, and a few surfers beat us.

We brought our coffee, walked, and then sat and read for an hour, enjoying the dry, cool air the storm had left us with.

These two big horseshoe crab shells had been brought in by the tide. The largest one is abut 14 inches long and maybe 10 inches wide.

Horseshoe crabs are fascinating creatures. First of all, they aren't crabs. And they have been here since before the dinosaurs and haven't changed much since.

The pointy tail thing is not a stinger, it's a rudder and is especially useful for righting themselves when they get turned upside down.

If you have ever had a shot, you can thank a horseshoe crab that you didn't get an infection. Their blood contains amoebocytes that the FDA uses in testing drugs and surgical implants for bacteria, a procedure that has saved millions of patients' lives (though that's not true for the crabs; fifteen to 20 percent die in the process). Each quart of horseshoe crab blood costs drug companies about $15,000.

The one on the right is probably a female as they grow to be larger than the males. They are 10-11 years old before they are mature and ready to reproduce.

This is a holiday weekend in the States, Labor Day -- sort of the official end of the carefree of summer. Families celebrate with a 3-day weekend of picnics, last days at the lake or the beach, and the children all go back to school on Tuesday.

Happy Labor Day, American friends!

 

Saturday, August 27, 2016

Prince Frederick's Chapel, Plantersville

A long way from anywhere, along narrow deserted roads through miles of nothing but wilderness, lie the abandoned rice fields and plantations of the wealthiest Americans of their day, plantations that each produced up to 1.5 million pounds of rice a year.

Out of nowhere we came upon these ruins of Prince Frederick's Chapel, what is left of a large and ornate church fitting for worship by the planters, men of wealth and power, and their families.

Prince Frederick of Wales was the son of King George II.

 

The first small wooden chapel on the site was built in 1848 and construction of a grand replacement in the Gothic Revival style was begun in 1859. Work soon came to a halt, interrupted by the Civil War.

After the war it was impossible to imagine that a way of life, one based on the cultivation of rice and the exploitation of slaves for labor, that had prospered for over a hundred years could end. Planters regained their land, fought to bring back the rice crops, and work resumed on the church. The contractors were two brothers, Philip and Edward Gunn. One of them fell to his death during construction.

 

The new church was finished in 1879 but it was too late. With the loss of slave labor the rice economy rapidly declined, planters fled to the cities, and in a few years the church was abandoned, began to crumble, and eventually was removed except for the front wall.

 

 

When the church was demolished in 1966 the front wall and bell tower, guarded by a tall fence topped with strands of barbed wire and a plethora of No Trespassing signs, was left standing, a testament to a time when what has returned to wilderness was the center of American commerce.

 

 

Monday, August 22, 2016

Sink or Swim

You would think that swimming lessons would be essential for South Carolina Lowcountry children who live surrounded by water of every kind. But sadly, that's not the case for the area's poor.

In the first half of this year there have been 13 lives lost already in the lakes, rivers, and ocean in the Georgetown area. The most recent victim was a 12-year-old boy.

It's hot in the summer in South Carolina and all that beautiful water tempts with free fun and an opportunity to cool off.

There is no public pool in Georgetown with inexpensive swimming lessons like I had growing up. It costs $85 joining fee plus $69 a month for a family to use the YMCA and swimming lessons cost extra on top of that.

The schools are poor; no pools there, but second graders are given four free swim lessons during the school year at the YMCA pool.

It's a start, but anyone who has raised a child knows that four swim lessons at age 7 aren't enough.

It's not only the children who can't swim. In McClellanville, population 499, a fishing village just down the road, there is a monument erected in memory of those who have lost their lives by drowning. The names on the memorial are those of 58 of the town's commercial fishermen, men who made their living on the water and the water took their lives.

 

 

The Lowcountry Seaman's Memorial is dedicated to Chet Anderson, 34, a shrimper who died in 1999.

He drowned while saving a crew member who fell overboard.

Anderson could swim, but his crew member could not.

 

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Moon Over Winyah Bay

 

Slowly but surely things are getting accomplished and put away in our house. Earlier this week the new couch arrived, and as you can see --

 

 

 

Rosie approves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The 1990s floral wallpaper border has been painstakingly removed from the kitchen.

 

 

 

 

 

Ahhhh, that's better!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beneath the house a vapor barrier has been added for protection from moisture and tomorrow afternoon the new carpet and kitchen tile will be installed.

There are plenty more little projects, but that will be the last of the big, expensive ones.

The heat in July and August here have broken all records and it's been hot and sweaty working. Last night after dinner the humidity was down and we were motivated to get out of the house and "stretch our eyes."

The highway into Georgetown crosses a bridge high over the Sampit River about a mile from our house. The paper mill that provides many jobs for the town is upstream, and a huge county marina and park lie beneath the bridge.

From a trail and observation deck you can view the remnants of old bridges replaced over the years by bigger and better ones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked the trail with Bob the Border Collie enjoying all the enticing smells apparent only to a dog's nose and then we headed toward home. The sun had set and the beautiful full moon was rising over Winyah Bay near our house.

 

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Toby Tyler, the Circus, and Me

I was reading Connie's interesting post ( you can read it here: http://farsideoffifty.blogspot.com/) this morning about her husband's childhood traveling the carnival circuit and was reminded of a book I hadn't thought about for many years. It was one of my dad's books I found on my grandma's bookshelf, Toby Tyler, or Ten Weeks With the Circus.

My dad's copy looked like this. It was written in 1881 and his copy was probably from the 1930s.

I loved this book! I must have read it when I was about seven and in my memory it was a great adventure about a boy who left his adopted family to run away from home and take off with the circus when it came to his town.

It, along with National Geographic Magazine my parents subscribed to, sparked my first memory of longing for travel, to see what was out there in the world. The train to Chicago used to go by my house in the night and as I was falling asleep I would create dreamy fantasies of myself on the train and all the places in the world I wanted to see.

And here was Toby Tyler, a mere kid, doing it!

I had a surprise when I looked the book up. The book that first fueled my wanderlust obsession was described like this:

"Toby Tyler is a "bad boy" novel, meant to teach a lesson, what happens to boys who do bad things."

What? It did pretty much just the opposite for 7-year old me!

Apparently I'm in good company. Carl Sandburg, one of my favorite American poets, claimed it as his favorite adventure book as a boy, "even better than The Adventures of Tom Sawyer or Huckleberry Finn." And so did some other American authors.

And it just goes to show you, children's authors write a book for one reason but that's not necessarily the message young readers remember for the next 60 years!

Anyone else have fond memories of Toby Tyler and his monkey, Mr Stubbs?

 

 


 

Sunday, August 7, 2016

Saturday is Market Day

I wondered what it would be like shopping for food when we moved to Georgetown after our experience in Ridgeland, but I needn't have worried. There are wonderful options.

 

The farmer's market is small but the farms are local. And in addition to organic veggies and fruit, they sell homemade cheese, organic milk with the cream on top, honey, brooms, and wonderful bread from an Eastern European baker.

We bought peaches, melon, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, corn, tomato basil cheddar cheese, and a loaf of crusty bread.

 

A couple blocks away, the fishing boats and shrimpers come in daily to Independent Seafood.

 

Although the fishing boats stay at sea about a week at a time, there is always someone pulling up to unload their catch.

 

The business was begun in 1937 by Herbert Tarbox to serve the local fisherman in getting a fair price for their catch. His son Glennie is in charge now.

 

 

 

 

 

It's a very busy place when a boat comes in with workers appearing to unload the catch, sort it, box it, load it on pallets, and get it into refrigerated trucks ASAP.

Most of the seafood goes to restaurants in the New England states but it's also available to us Georgetonians.

The red-lined buckets contain shrimp in different sizes.

 

 

Today's catch was flounder, grouper, shad, and tuna.

 

We bought some flounder.

 

 

 

And here is someone else who works at the fish market. I imagine he takes his pay in delicious seafood dinners.